SAINT LAURENT Winter 2026 Men’s Collection ーThe Morning After: Reframing Intimacy and Masculinity

Feb 4, 2026
Saint Laurent presents the Winter 2026 Men’s Collection by Anthony Vaccarello, unfolding at daybreak in Paris. Not the city of postcards or spectacle, but Paris as it is lived: a private interior world, experienced room by room, moment by moment. The collection inhabits the fragile threshold between night and morning, when the traces of what has happened linger, and meaning begins to take shape.

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Rather than seeking provocation, Vaccarello turns inward. At the heart of the collection lies a meditation on vulnerability—on an eroticism rooted not in display, but in exposure. It continues his ongoing exploration of masculinity, not as assertion, but as something questioned, inhabited, and quietly redefined.

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A key reference is Giovanni’s Room (1956) by James Baldwin, a novel that confronts desire and post-war bourgeois masculinity with uncompromising clarity. Vaccarello was particularly drawn to a moment at dawn, when the protagonist David leaves Giovanni’s room in the early morning hours. The psychological and emotional tension of that departure—caught between intimacy and distance—becomes a central image for the collection.

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This notion of the morning after is a recurring motif in the history of Saint Laurent. It speaks to a transition: from nakedness to loungewear, from loungewear to clothing for the outside world. Dressing becomes a ritual of re-entry, a way of armouring oneself before facing reality again.

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Silhouettes are fluid yet precise, balancing strength with fragility. Fabrics appear soft, crumpled, lived-in—suggestive of memory, affection, and time passed. Shoulders are sharply defined, not to deny vulnerability, but to frame it. The garments are completed by what they reveal and what they withhold, creating an understated sensuality that resists excess.

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The house’s iconic smoking jacket returns as a form of protection, almost like a shield against uncertainty. High boots ground the body, anchoring it firmly back in the present. Throughout the collection, classicism and iconoclasm are held in tension, unified by black—the ultimate Saint Laurent colour, both severe and intimate.

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Presented within a space charged with memory and restraint, the Winter 2026 Men’s Collection captures a fleeting moment of truth: the stillness between night and day, where desire, fear, and identity briefly surface. In that suspended instant, Saint Laurent finds its quiet power.


Courtesy of SAINT LAURENT
Courtesy of SAINT LAURENT
Courtesy of SAINT LAURENT
Courtesy of SAINT LAURENT
Courtesy of SAINT LAURENT






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