IM MEN Autumn/Winter 2026/27 — “FORMLESS FORM” and the Possibilities of a Single Piece of Cloth

Jan 27, 2026
IM MEN unveiled its Autumn/Winter 2026/27 collection, FORMLESS FORM, at the Collège des Bernardins, a historic architectural site in Paris’s 5th arrondissement.
Rooted in the phrase “proper, with just a single piece,” the collection moves beyond predetermined shapes or finished forms, instead questioning the attitude, intention, and presence that clothing can embody.

What IM MEN turns its gaze toward is the ambiguous time that exists between day and night—moments such as dawn and dusk, when boundaries soften and certainty dissolves. In the same way, garments in this collection are conceived not as fixed forms, but as entities that emerge through their relationship with the body.

Frédérique Dumoulin-Bonnet / © ISSEY MIYAKE INC.

CLAY
CLAY is a series that draws out sculptural forms from a textile developed exclusively by IM MEN. Flat structures coexist within a single piece of fabric alongside ribbed sections that contract when exposed to heat, creating an undulating surface and unexpected volume.
The inherent stretch of the textile allows it to respond naturally to the wearer’s movements, offering both comfort and ease. Designed with versatility in mind, the details enable the garments to be worn across both casual and formal contexts.

Frédérique Dumoulin-Bonnet / © ISSEY MIYAKE INC.

DAWN
DAWN is an outerwear series that captures fleeting moments in the changing sky through artisanal dyeing techniques. Gradual transitions of three colors unfold across a single piece of fabric, evoking the depth and nuance of dawn and twilight.
To highlight the character of the textile, each garment is individually cut and sewn, finished with clean, linear construction. The front panels resemble layered oversized stoles and can be crossed to wear the piece like a double-breasted coat, allowing for multiple styling possibilities.

Frédérique Dumoulin-Bonnet / © ISSEY MIYAKE INC.

OVERLAP
OVERLAP features coats constructed by connecting the chest flap and back rain shield with a single piece of cloth. By releasing the sleeve belts, the garment can be worn like a poncho, while shoulder epaulettes allow the fabric to be gathered, transforming the silhouette.
Lightweight cotton-nylon fabric provides a natural texture and soft touch with a subtle firmness. A washer finish adds depth and expression to the material, and generously proportioned trousers complete the series.

Frédérique Dumoulin-Bonnet / © ISSEY MIYAKE INC.

GRADATION WOOL
GRADATION WOOL is defined by its distinctive coloration, achieved by dyeing wool fabric in bolt form with flowing pigments. Each piece reveals a unique pattern, ensuring no two garments are alike.
Short jackets and jumpsuits feature side zippers that open to create the appearance of layered two-piece ensembles. Wide-leg trousers are accented with broad belts reminiscent of cummerbunds, while refined materials and detailing lend the series a quietly formal presence.

Frédérique Dumoulin-Bonnet / © ISSEY MIYAKE INC.

RAFT
RAFT is an outerwear series characterized by its bold, three-dimensional volume. The padding is made from string-like insulation that traps air efficiently, providing warmth even in small quantities.
Vertical quilting takes advantage of this material’s properties, forming distinctive shapes reminiscent of a raft, balancing visual impact with functional performance.

Frédérique Dumoulin-Bonnet / © ISSEY MIYAKE INC.

KASURI
KASURI explores the coexistence of boldness and delicacy through traditional kasuri weaving. Four types of yarn are used—three dyed in different colors, along with three variations in tonal depth—creating subtle shifts as the pattern slightly misaligns during weaving.
The result is a textile that bears traces of the human hand, with unexpected softness that belies its appearance. Both the blouson and transformed trousers are constructed from single rectangular pieces of fabric, generating rich drape. The blouson can be styled in multiple ways by adjusting the button placement, functioning like a hood or stole.

Frédérique Dumoulin-Bonnet / © ISSEY MIYAKE INC.

FRONT BACK
FRONT BACK utilizes wool fabric with contrasting expressions on each side: a matte surface paired with a satin reverse that carries a refined sheen.
Coats and jackets are made from continuous patterns extending from body to sleeve, allowing the satin reverse to appear at collars and cuffs when folded back. When worn without inserting the arms, the garments resemble long vests, while the sleeves can be wrapped or draped freely like hoods or scarves.

Frédérique Dumoulin-Bonnet / © ISSEY MIYAKE INC.

SELVEDGE WOOL
SELVEDGE WOOL features supple, high-quality wool produced entirely in Bishu, Japan, a region renowned for its textile craftsmanship. To emphasize the fabric’s fluid drape, “IM MEN” is woven directly into the selvedge.
Designed with a structure that allows the garment to be folded into a square, the series reveals organic drape and movement when worn.

Frédérique Dumoulin-Bonnet / © ISSEY MIYAKE INC.

LEATHER PLEATS
LEATHER PLEATS is a series of bags constructed from large pleats in natural leather. Finished with cuts that balance sharpness and softness—hallmarks of IM MEN’s garments—the leather offers a supple feel to the touch.
Over time, use enhances the material’s natural luster, bringing out its inherent value.

Frédérique Dumoulin-Bonnet / © ISSEY MIYAKE INC.

TO GO
TO GO is a product series inspired by takeaway coffee cups. By translating the familiar silhouette into different materials, the design draws attention to the quiet fascination of everyday forms.
The series highlights both the beauty embedded in ordinary actions and the shifting impressions created by changes in material.

Frédérique Dumoulin-Bonnet / © ISSEY MIYAKE INC.


Beyond Form
For IM MEN, clothing is not a completed object, but something that continuously evolves within time and through the body. FORMLESS FORM does not reject shape outright; rather, it reflects a commitment to values that resist being confined by form alone.

As a single piece of cloth gains meaning through movement and gesture, this collection gently but firmly reconsiders what clothing can be—and what it can become.


Frédérique Dumoulin-Bonnet / © ISSEY MIYAKE ISSEY MIYAKE INC.
Frédérique Dumoulin-Bonnet / ©ISSEY MIYAKE INC.
Frédérique Dumoulin-Bonnet / © ISSEY MIYAKE INC.

Frédérique Dumoulin-Bonnet / © ISSEY MIYAKE INC.


Editorial department
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