Presented at Milan Fashion Week, Paul Smith’s Autumn/Winter 2026 menswear collection celebrates the house’s signature tailoring while paying tribute to its rich history.
Courtesy of Paul Smith
Titled “magpie dressing,” the collection takes inspiration from the pleasure of collecting—an idea that has long formed the backbone of Paul Smith’s creative world.
The act of gathering stories and objects has consistently informed the brand’s design language. This season, a wide range of influences is brought together through Paul Smith’s distinctive lens: the designer’s own archive, the world of British book collectors, and the bohemian aesthetic of artist Jean Cocteau. These eclectic references are reassembled into a coherent, character-driven style.
Courtesy of Paul Smith
Anchored by the idea of “seeing things anew,” Paul Smith developed the collection alongside Sam Cotton, the newly appointed head of menswear design, who has long been part of the brand’s creative team. Central to their process was the Paul Smith archive in Nottingham, home to approximately 5,000 garments created over more than 55 years.
Looking back at iconic shows and campaigns from the late 1980s and early 1990s, the collection revisits hallmark tailoring and silhouettes, re-edited through a contemporary perspective. Throughout, Paul Smith’s characteristic approach—introducing subtle twists to classic forms—remains unmistakable.
Paul Smith / Courtesy of Paul Smith
Materiality plays a key role, with expressive fabrics such as Harris Tweed and Donegal lending the collection a sense of British wit and warmth.
The colour palette is more tightly curated this season, built around deep, autumnal tones accented by archive prints and carefully placed highlights. Through the interplay of prints, patterns, and textures, the collection gains depth and visual rhythm.
Courtesy of Paul Smith
One of the most personal sources of inspiration comes from the extensive photographic archive left by Paul Smith’s father. These images are translated into shirt prints, quietly infusing the collection with narrative resonance. Archival polka dots also reappear, combined with transparency and shadow effects, while hand-drawn pear motifs add a note of playful irreverence that is quintessentially Paul Smith.
Attention is also paid to the garments’ interiors. During the meticulous process of reworking pieces from the inside out, linings are coloured according to schemes inspired by Japanese colour theory—an influence Paul Smith has long admired. Meaning is embedded even in unseen details, reinforcing the collection’s underlying philosophy of thoughtful accumulation.
Courtesy of Paul Smith
Drawing further inspiration from Jean Cocteau’s world, the collection conveys a sense of clothes that have been lived in and worn with familiarity. Both Cocteau and Paul Smith shared an appreciation for everyday dress—Cocteau with his shirts and ties, Paul with his daily suits—connecting them through the idea of a uniform rooted in daily life.
Influenced by refined Parisian style, new sartorial details such as layered cuffs, sheer materials, and button covers bring added dimension to the magpie dressing concept.
This approach extends to accessories, where supple leather bags, belts, and charms introduce a quiet sense of depth and afterthought to the looks. Storytelling also shaped the show environment. A mural based on original artworks by Colin Barnes—who documented Paul Smith’s early designs in 1976—was displayed at the venue, recalling the brand’s origins.
Courtesy of Paul Smith
At the Paul Smith headquarters in Milan, trompe-l’œil techniques were employed to create moments of visual play and discovery. Wooden benches were printed with everyday objects such as scissors and coffee cups, reflecting the magpie spirit by highlighting beauty and delight in the ordinary.
Courtesy of Paul Smith
Courtesy of Paul Smith
Courtesy of Paul Smith
Courtesy of Paul Smith
Courtesy of Paul Smith
［SHOW CREDITS］
Styling: Ben Schofield
HMU: Matt Mulhall
Casting: Ben Grimes Casting
Production: Holmes Production
Music: Andrew Hale and Peter Smith
About Paul Smith
Paul Smith is one of Britain’s leading fashion and lifestyle brands. Defined by positivity, curiosity, and creativity, these values are woven into every aspect of the brand—from product design to retail spaces and collaborations. Founded in Nottingham in 1970 with a modest 3m × 3m shop, Paul Smith now operates around 130 stores across more than 60 countries and regions worldwide.
Courtesy of Paul SmithTitled “magpie dressing,” the collection takes inspiration from the pleasure of collecting—an idea that has long formed the backbone of Paul Smith’s creative world.
The act of gathering stories and objects has consistently informed the brand’s design language. This season, a wide range of influences is brought together through Paul Smith’s distinctive lens: the designer’s own archive, the world of British book collectors, and the bohemian aesthetic of artist Jean Cocteau. These eclectic references are reassembled into a coherent, character-driven style.
Courtesy of Paul SmithAnchored by the idea of “seeing things anew,” Paul Smith developed the collection alongside Sam Cotton, the newly appointed head of menswear design, who has long been part of the brand’s creative team. Central to their process was the Paul Smith archive in Nottingham, home to approximately 5,000 garments created over more than 55 years.
Looking back at iconic shows and campaigns from the late 1980s and early 1990s, the collection revisits hallmark tailoring and silhouettes, re-edited through a contemporary perspective. Throughout, Paul Smith’s characteristic approach—introducing subtle twists to classic forms—remains unmistakable.
Paul Smith / Courtesy of Paul SmithMateriality plays a key role, with expressive fabrics such as Harris Tweed and Donegal lending the collection a sense of British wit and warmth.
The colour palette is more tightly curated this season, built around deep, autumnal tones accented by archive prints and carefully placed highlights. Through the interplay of prints, patterns, and textures, the collection gains depth and visual rhythm.
Courtesy of Paul SmithOne of the most personal sources of inspiration comes from the extensive photographic archive left by Paul Smith’s father. These images are translated into shirt prints, quietly infusing the collection with narrative resonance. Archival polka dots also reappear, combined with transparency and shadow effects, while hand-drawn pear motifs add a note of playful irreverence that is quintessentially Paul Smith.
Attention is also paid to the garments’ interiors. During the meticulous process of reworking pieces from the inside out, linings are coloured according to schemes inspired by Japanese colour theory—an influence Paul Smith has long admired. Meaning is embedded even in unseen details, reinforcing the collection’s underlying philosophy of thoughtful accumulation.
Courtesy of Paul SmithDrawing further inspiration from Jean Cocteau’s world, the collection conveys a sense of clothes that have been lived in and worn with familiarity. Both Cocteau and Paul Smith shared an appreciation for everyday dress—Cocteau with his shirts and ties, Paul with his daily suits—connecting them through the idea of a uniform rooted in daily life.
Influenced by refined Parisian style, new sartorial details such as layered cuffs, sheer materials, and button covers bring added dimension to the magpie dressing concept.
This approach extends to accessories, where supple leather bags, belts, and charms introduce a quiet sense of depth and afterthought to the looks. Storytelling also shaped the show environment. A mural based on original artworks by Colin Barnes—who documented Paul Smith’s early designs in 1976—was displayed at the venue, recalling the brand’s origins.
Courtesy of Paul SmithAt the Paul Smith headquarters in Milan, trompe-l’œil techniques were employed to create moments of visual play and discovery. Wooden benches were printed with everyday objects such as scissors and coffee cups, reflecting the magpie spirit by highlighting beauty and delight in the ordinary.
Courtesy of Paul SmithCourtesy of Paul SmithCourtesy of Paul SmithCourtesy of Paul SmithCourtesy of Paul Smith［SHOW CREDITS］
Styling: Ben Schofield
HMU: Matt Mulhall
Casting: Ben Grimes Casting
Production: Holmes Production
Music: Andrew Hale and Peter Smith
About Paul Smith
Paul Smith is one of Britain’s leading fashion and lifestyle brands. Defined by positivity, curiosity, and creativity, these values are woven into every aspect of the brand—from product design to retail spaces and collaborations. Founded in Nottingham in 1970 with a modest 3m × 3m shop, Paul Smith now operates around 130 stores across more than 60 countries and regions worldwide.
